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Deluxe EFIE


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Can Be Turned Off & On With Your Booster

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Assembled EFIE


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The first wide band EFIE in the world


Wide Band
2 channel EFIE !

Works on imports with wide band sensors!

 

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Basic EFIE
Trick your O2 Sensor

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Replace the
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30 Amp PWM


 

Wide Band EFIE

* NEW *

 



The First wide band EFIE in the world is here

 

This product will work with all wide band oxygen sensors and AFR sensors.

This is the EFIE of choice for both 4-wire and 5-wire oxygen sensors.

Also note there is a variation of the 5-wire sensor that uses 6 wires. This device will work with these too!

 

Note: This EFIE will NOT work with narrow band sensors. For these you must use the basic EFIE or the Dual EFIE Deluxe.

This product is only available in a dual configuration at this time. This means that this device will control 2 wide band oxygen sensors. For vehicles with single wide band oxygen sensors, just don't hook up the other circuit.

This model comes in a mountable box, and encased in protective plastic. The wiring is 18 gauge, with quick disconnects that can unplug from the device for easy installation. It has one potentiometer that controls the air fuel ratio adjustment for both sensors. An LED shows when the unit is powered up. By using the included rubber cap to cover the potentiometer, the unit becomes waterproof.

These units have a start up delay of about 45 seconds. After approximately 25 seconds the unit will start ramping up. At 45 secs it will reach it's full adjustment to the sensor's signal. This delay is by design so that the fuel mix will be richer during engine start up.

This unit is highly precise. It's signal drift is less than 1% across it's entire operating temperature range, which is -40C to 125C (-40F to 257F).

 

1 Wide Band EFIE and free shipping

$79.95

 

Lot of (3) Wide band EFIE's and free shipping

$199.95

 


1 Wide band EFIE and World Wide shipping

$99.95




 

 

Installation instructions

Locate the wide band oxygen sensor signal wire

The most important point in installing any EFIE, is to correctly identify the signal wire that the EFIE must be installed on. In general, the easiest way to locate the correct wire is by use of a wiring diagram. If you are doing mods to your vehicle, I recommend you get a full set of wiring diagrams from www.ahdol.com . I think they charge $12 for a full set for your vehicle, and they will usually email them to you in pdf format within a day. Once you think you have found the correct wire, I still recommend that you test for it to ensure that you have the correct wire.

Please see Wide Band Oxygen Sensors for complete information on identifying your sensor wires. You are looking for the current pump wires, which should be around 2.7 and 3.0 volts, or 3.0 and 3.3 volts for 4-wire sensors. 5-wire sensors may differ from this slightly, but will be pretty close. The wire we need is the one that has the higher voltage of this pair. We will call this the "signal wire", and this is the one that we will connect the EFIE's signal wire to.
Locate 12 volt power and ground

You need to ensure that you have switched power, not power directly from the battery. You don't want the EFIE running 100% of the time.

Most of the fuel efficiency devices need switched power as well, and you can then piggy back onto them. Note that the EFIE draws negligible power. You can attach it to any circuit. The best choice for a voltage source is a fuel efficiency device, such as a Hydrogen generator. That way the EFIE only activates when the fuel efficiency device is turned on. Note that when power is shut off to the EFIE, the signal from the oxygen sensor to the computer is not affected. The EFIE has no affect on this circuit when it's powered off.

Ground can be the vehicle body, engine block or ground from another device. Just make sure that whatever you choose to use for ground has a negligible resistance (less than 10 ohms) when tested against the negative battery terminal of your car.
The Wide Band EFIE:

The wide band EFIE has only power and ground connections, and one output wire for each sensor it is handling. Below is a diagram of a Dual Wide Band EFIE. The white and blue wires are the output wires, and each of these will be connected to a wide band oxygen sensor's signal wire. Note, if you are installing a dual EFIE and only have one wide band sensor to handle, then only use one of the output wires. Leave the other one disconnected.

The "signal out" wire connects to your wide band sensor's signal wire as discovered above. Connect the white wire to one wide band sensor's signal wire, and the blue wire to the signal wire of your other sensor. For these EFIEs (unlike narrow band sensor installations) you do not cut the signal wire. Instead, you tap into the sensor's signal wire, with the EFIE's output wire. You cut away some of the insulation from the sensor signal wire to expose the copper. Then you wrap the EFIE's signal wire around it, and solder the wires together. Finally, wrap the connection with some good cloth type electrical tape.

The signal out for both outputs is controlled with a single pot. In the left picture above, the pot is covered with it's black waterproof cover. In the right picture, you can see it exposed. It is a single turn pot. When turned counter-clockwise all the way to the stop, it has almost no effect. When turned clockwise all the way it will add about 5.3 milliamps, which will lean your engine way more than it probably should. Please see the caution in the next section about this. We have no need to read voltages with this device. We just set it for a number on the pot.
Setting the Wide Band EFIE:

I'll start this section with a word of caution. Setting these EFIEs too high can cause your engine to run too lean. Running too lean can cause the valves to overheat and may actually burn them, requiring an expensive engine overhaul. This danger doesn't exist with narrow band EFIEs because the EFIEs are not able to achieve the amount of control that these wide band models have. So you must be careful. If you set this EFIE above 1/2 power, you should consider that you are getting dangerously high.

We should review a little of the basic theory of why we are using an EFIE: When you add a fuel efficiency device, such as an HHO generator, one of the results will be that there is more intake air in the exhaust per amount of fuel. This equates to more oxygen, that the oxygen sensor then detects. The additional oxygen means that the air/fuel ratio appears lean to the computer, and it will react my adding more gas. This causes you to lose some of the gains you should be getting from your fuel efficiency device. The purpose of the EFIE is to counter act this effect. The EFIE makes the signal look richer than it is, causing the computer to lean the mix. The point of this is, that all we are trying to do with the EFIE is to counter the effect caused by your HHO. We're not actually trying to lean the mix. We just don't want the HHO to cause it to run rich.

So take it easy in setting this device on your car. I think you'll find that the correct setting will be between 1/4 and 1/2 power. But the thing to do is to start low, and test your mileage. Then raise it a bit and see if you've mileage improves. Continue to test in this way until you get no increase of mileage, or a decrease. Then go back to the last point that increased mileage. That's where you want to be.
Summary:

If you run into trouble or can't understand these directions, please contact us at sales@hydrogenboostnow.com .

Good luck with your project.

 

 

Almost all modern vehicles employ oxygen sensors to tell the vehicle's computer if the air/fuel mixture is too rich or too lean. The computer uses the information from the 02 sensor to determine if more or less fuel should be added to the mix in order to maintain the correct proportion.

Gas vehicle engines (as opposed to diesel engines) are designed to operate at an air/fuel ratio of 14.7 to 1. When these proportions are being supplied to the engine, a certain amount of oxygen will be detected in the exhaust by the 02 sensor, and this information is fed into the vehicle's computer. If more oxygen is sensed, the computer thinks the mixture is too lean (not enough fuel), and adds fuel to the mix. Likewise, if less oxygen is sensed, the computer thinks the mixture is too rich (too much fuel) and cuts back on the fuel fed to the engine.

There's a big problem with this scenario as soon as you start adding a workable fuel efficiency device. For any given air/fuel ratio, burned more efficiently, the oxygen content in the exhaust will rise. If you have two or more efficiency devices installed, even more oxygen will be present in the exhaust. The oxygen content rises as the fuel is burned more efficiently for a number of reasons. Chief amongst these are a) less fuel is being used to produce an equivalent amount of horsepower, and b) less oxygen is being consumed to create carbon monoxide in the exhaust. The bottom line is there is more oxygen in the exhaust as the fuel burning efficiency is increased.

So, now that we have spent time and money to install a fuel efficiency device or two, and we are getting a more efficient fuel burn, what does the vehicle's computer do? It dumps gas into the mix in an attempt to get an oxygen reading in the exhaust equal to it's earlier, inefficient setup. This will then negate the fuel savings of just about any efficiency device, and in some cases will actually cause an increase in fuel consumption, despite having a workable fuel efficiency device.
The Solution

The handling for this situation is simple. The signal coming from the 02 sensor needs to be adjusted to compensate for the increased fuel efficiency being achieved. Basically the added oxygen in the exhaust fools the computer into thinking the mixture is too lean, causing it to (incorrectly) richen the mix. We need to un-fool the computer so it continues to give us the same amount of gas as before. We do this by making it think there is less oxygen in the exhaust than there actually is. The amount of change to the signal has to be easily adjustable to accommodate the different types of efficiency devices that are available.

The oxygen sensor produces voltages to communicate the oxygen content to the computer. When the sensor reads below .45 volts, that means it's lean, and when it reads above .45 volts, it's saying the mix is rich. If you connect your volt meter to an oxygen sensor signal wire and ground, while the engine is running, you'll see the voltage is constantly changing, and you'll probably see voltages in the range of .3 to .7 volts or so. In actual fact, the voltage is changing back and forth from about .1 volt to about 1.0 volts, several times per second. But a hand held meter is not quick enough to show this.

The EFIE adds it's voltage to the sensor's voltage, which shifts the voltage that the computer receives towards rich. This causes the computer to provide less gas. Many people think we're trying to fool the computer with an EFIE. That's actually not accurate. The extra oxygen in the exhaust because of a more complete combustion is what's fooling the computer. It's making the computer think the mix is too lean, and it's compensating by adding gas that is not needed. The EFIE is un-fooling the computer. All we want to do is get it back to giving us a 14.7 to 1 air/fuel ratio again.

It should be noted that an oxygen sensor handling device, by itself, is not a fuel efficiency device. It possibly could be used to control the vehicle's computer, and make the engine burn a little leaner, and this could possibly give a small increase in gas mileage. But this is not what it was designed to do. It was designed to complement, and in some cases make possible, increased gas mileage using other fuel efficiency devices.

 

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