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* NEW *
World's
First
2 Channel Digital EFIE
Now
all EFIE's cost less here
than when you buy them from the manufacturer

This
EFIE works better than any EFIE we have ever tested!
The
Dual Digital EFIE Deluxe is the first of a new family
of digital EFIE products. These new EFIE's will allow
you to lean out your vehicle more than any other EFIE
This
new EFIE can be used for all narrow band oxygen sensors
that are upstream of the catalytic converter.
This EFIE can
be used on most all American cars and trucks.
Advantages
Of The Digital EFIE
(1) Can make the air fuel mix leaner than a standard
EFIE:
Some have even stalled their engine when they set
it too lean.
(2) Absolutely rock steady adjustment:
No matter what the ambient temperature is this EFIE
will vary less than 1/2 of 1%.
(3) Will work with older "tired" oxygen
sensors that should have been replaced.
(4)
Startup delay:
This EFIE has a 45 second startup delay so the EFIE
will not lean out your engine during startup.
(5) One adjustment knob:
Modifies both sensors equally.
(6)
Built in relay:
Restores the original connection when turned off or
powered down.
Note:
If
you need to treat sensors that are downstream from
a catalytic converter, we do not recommend this device.
Use the basic EFIE or the deluxe EFIE for these sensors
instead. The digital EFIE are intended for upstream
sensors only.
Back
ordered until 6-25-09
Only
$95.00
*
Free Shipping Inside the USA*
2 channel
Digital EFIE
with free shipping
Only
$95.00
|
Lot
of (2)
2 channel
Digital EFIE's
with free shipping
$179.95 |
2
channel
Digital EFIE
with
World Wide shipping
$109.95
|
30
day money back guarantee
Digital
2 channel EFIE
Installation Instructions
Please install your hydrogen booster first.
Locate the oxygen sensor signal wire
The
easy way to do this is to look it up in your Haynes,
Clymer or Chilton manual for your car. If you don't
have one of these, there is a service at www.ahdol.com
where you can pay a nominal fee, and get your wiring
diagrams emailed to you. We have also recently found
a resource at www.autozone.com
whereby you can get your wiring diagram, and specific
service manual information on your sensors. However,
the information is not available for all cars and
trucks.
If
none of these options are available, you'll need to
locate the oxygen senor and then locate the signal
wire by testing. The sensor can have 2, 3 or 4 wires,
and you have to know which one is the signal wire.
If you have 4 wires they will be:
*
Heater 12 Volts +
* Heater ground
* Oxygen sensor signal +
* Oxygen sensor signal ground
Different wiring configurations:
If
you have 2 or 3 wires, then you can have a common
ground or no heater wires, etc. The simplest setup
is a single wire, which is the signal wire and the
sensor gets it's ground from the exhaust pipe. You
can use the following procedure to narrow down which
wire is which:
1. Stick straight pins into the sensor's wires and
measure them to ground with the engine running.
2.
Next find any wires that produce 0 volts. These will
be ground wires. The remaining wire should be your
signal wire.
3.
Stick a pin in the signal wire and measure it to ground
with the engine running. The voltage on this wire
will vary from nearly 0 to about 1 volt. Since your
meter will not be fast enough to see the lows and
highs, it will average them out to about .2 to about
.8 volts. The fluctuations will be so fast your meter
will have a hard time reading the numbers.
Note:
You have to let the engine warm up a bit before you
will get these voltages from the sensor.
4.
Cut this wire at a convenient location for connecting
the EFIE. We'll call the sensor side of this cut,
the sensor wire and the other side of the cut, the
computer wire.
Note:
Rarely
an oxygen sensor wiring harness will have more than
4 wires. In you do have 5 wires the sensor is possibly
a "wide band" oxygen sensor.
Once
you have determined which is the sensor's signal wire,
you want to get it located up close to the computer.
If you used a manual or wiring diagram, you probably
have already located the wire at the computer's wiring
harness. If you had to figure out the wires at the
sensor itself, then try to find the same wire at the
computer's wiring harness. Test it with an ohm meter
to be sure. Sometimes they use the same colors for
different things. Even if it's a pain now, it's worth
it to get the signal wire located up by the computer.
This makes cutting into it and hooking up the EFIE
much easier.
5 . Locate 12 volt power and ground
You
need to ensure that you have switched power, not power
directly from the battery. You don't want the EFIE
running 100% of the time. It will very slowly drain
your battery.
Most
hydrogen boosters need switched power as well, and
you can often piggy back onto them.
Note:
When
power is shut off to the EFIE or the EFIE's switch
is turned off, the original connection between the
oxygen sensor and the computer is re-established.
If
connecting to your hydrogen booster is inconvenient,
just use any circuit that is accessory key switched.
One
installer used the oxygen sensor's heater power for
his EFIE's power, and this is perfectly acceptable.
Ground
can be the vehicle body, engine block , including
the ground for the oxygen sensor itself.
6. Mount the EFIE.....
You
can use the mounting ears to screw down the EFIE to
a suitable location on the vehicle body or firewall.
Some people like to mount the device inside the passenger
compartment of the car. Here are some considerations
about where you mount your EFIE that should also be
reviewed:
The EFIE is not 100% waterproof.
If you mount it under the hood, you will have to take
care to cover it if you need to steam or spray clean
your engine. If this is something you regularly do,
you may want to mount the EFIE in the passenger compartment
where it will be protected.
7. Attach the wires...
The
2 channel EFIE has 6 wires: red, black, white, green,
blue and brown.
Connect
the red to your switched power
source.
Connect
the black to ground.
Connect
the green wire to the oxygen
sensor.
Connect the white wire to the
computer.
Channel 2:
Connect
the brown wire to the oxygen
sensor.
Connect
the blue wire to the computer.
If you only have (1) 02 sensor, do not use the brown
and blue wires.
Note:
You
should solder the wires and use heat shrink tubing
to insulate the connections from other wires. If you
don't have heat shrink, you can use electrical tape.
I personally always use heat shrink. It's more professional
looking, and less likely to unravel later into a sticky
mess.
Important
Note:
The Digital Narrow Band EFIE will work best if you
ground the device to your computer's ground, rather
than vehicle ground.
You can use either of your oxygen sensor's ground
wires for this purpose. These are usually labeled
"sig low" or "signal return".
Some
vehicles put a reference voltage on this wire!
Chrysler Trucks have been known
to put 2.5 volts on the sensor's "sig low"
wire. In these cases it is vital that you connect
the Digital EFIE's ground (black wire) to the "sig
low". To
be clear.... Even though there is 2.5 volts on that
wire, we will use it for our ground.

Adjusting
The Digital EFIE
First
plug your meter probes into the black and red test
ports.
Set
your meter for DC volts.
When the EFIE is first powered on, it will start up
slowly using a 45 second timing delay.
The starting voltage you will read is about .45 volts.
After about 45 seconds, the voltage will stop changing.
This means the timing delay is through and you can
now adjust your EFIE.
There
is only one adjustment screw....
Turn
the adjustment screw clockwise to lower the voltage.
Lowering the voltage causes the engine to run leaner......
The
EFIE has been designed so that clockwise turning of
the pot increases the effect of the EFIE thus making
the engine leaner. When you are reading your meter
however, it will seem backwards.
After
the startup delay, adjustment of the pot will change
the voltage that you read at the test points from
near 0 to 450 millivolts (0 - .45 volts).
The
range that you are interested in is about 150 to 350
millivolts.
As
you turn the pot clockwise, the mix will get leaner
as the voltage goes lower. At some point it will start
lugging the engine. Then turn the pot back up 15 millivolts
or so, until the engine is running smooth again.
Be sure to then road test the vehicle and make sure
there is no loss of power. If there is, then you need
to back off the setting until this symptom completely
disappears.
That’s
about all there is to it.
Don’t lean it out until the engine lugs and then leave
it there. Also if you're driving and the engine seems
more sluggish than it was before, that's another indication
that you have set the engine too lean. You'll need
to back off until the condition is corrected.
For
more info, send us email and we can refer you to a
website dedicated to the EFIE and installing EFIE's.

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