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Deluxe EFIE


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2 channel EFIE

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The first wide band EFIE in the world


Wide Band
2 channel EFIE !

Works on imports with wide band sensors!

 

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Deluxe 2 Channel Digital EFIE


* NEW *

 

World's First
2 Channel Digital EFIE

 

Now all EFIE's cost less here
than when you buy them from the manufacturer

 



This EFIE works better than any EFIE we have ever tested!

 

 

The Dual Digital EFIE Deluxe is the first of a new family of digital EFIE products. These new EFIE's will allow you to lean out your vehicle more than any other EFIE

This new EFIE can be used for all narrow band oxygen sensors that are upstream of the catalytic converter.

This EFIE can be used on most all American cars and trucks.

 

Advantages Of The Digital EFIE

 

(1) Can make the air fuel mix leaner than a standard EFIE:
Some have even stalled their engine when they set it too lean.

(2) Absolutely rock steady adjustment:
No matter what the ambient temperature is this EFIE will vary less than 1/2 of 1%.

(3) Will work with older "tired" oxygen sensors that should have been replaced.

(4) Startup delay:
This EFIE has a 45 second startup delay so the EFIE will not lean out your engine during startup.

(5) One adjustment knob:
Modifies both sensors equally.

(6) Built in relay:
Restores the original connection when turned off or powered down.

Note:
If you need to treat sensors that are downstream from a catalytic converter, we do not recommend this device. Use the basic EFIE or the deluxe EFIE for these sensors instead. The digital EFIE are intended for upstream sensors only.

 

Back ordered until 6-25-09

Only $95.00

* Free Shipping Inside the USA*

 


2 channel
Digital EFIE
with free shipping

Only
$95.00

Lot of (2)

2 channel
Digital EFIE's
with free shipping

$179.95
2 channel
Digital EFIE
with

World Wide shipping

$109.95

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Digital 2 channel EFIE
Installation Instructions

Please install your hydrogen booster first.

Locate the oxygen sensor signal wire

The easy way to do this is to look it up in your Haynes, Clymer or Chilton manual for your car. If you don't have one of these, there is a service at www.ahdol.com where you can pay a nominal fee, and get your wiring diagrams emailed to you. We have also recently found a resource at www.autozone.com whereby you can get your wiring diagram, and specific service manual information on your sensors. However, the information is not available for all cars and trucks.

If none of these options are available, you'll need to locate the oxygen senor and then locate the signal wire by testing. The sensor can have 2, 3 or 4 wires, and you have to know which one is the signal wire. If you have 4 wires they will be:

* Heater 12 Volts +
* Heater ground
* Oxygen sensor signal +
* Oxygen sensor signal ground


Different wiring configurations:

If you have 2 or 3 wires, then you can have a common ground or no heater wires, etc. The simplest setup is a single wire, which is the signal wire and the sensor gets it's ground from the exhaust pipe. You can use the following procedure to narrow down which wire is which:

1. Stick straight pins into the sensor's wires and measure them to ground with the engine running.

2. Next find any wires that produce 0 volts. These will be ground wires. The remaining wire should be your signal wire.

3. Stick a pin in the signal wire and measure it to ground with the engine running. The voltage on this wire will vary from nearly 0 to about 1 volt. Since your meter will not be fast enough to see the lows and highs, it will average them out to about .2 to about .8 volts. The fluctuations will be so fast your meter will have a hard time reading the numbers.

Note:

You have to let the engine warm up a bit before you will get these voltages from the sensor.

4. Cut this wire at a convenient location for connecting the EFIE. We'll call the sensor side of this cut, the sensor wire and the other side of the cut, the computer wire.

Note:

Rarely an oxygen sensor wiring harness will have more than 4 wires. In you do have 5 wires the sensor is possibly a "wide band" oxygen sensor.

Once you have determined which is the sensor's signal wire, you want to get it located up close to the computer. If you used a manual or wiring diagram, you probably have already located the wire at the computer's wiring harness. If you had to figure out the wires at the sensor itself, then try to find the same wire at the computer's wiring harness. Test it with an ohm meter to be sure. Sometimes they use the same colors for different things. Even if it's a pain now, it's worth it to get the signal wire located up by the computer. This makes cutting into it and hooking up the EFIE much easier.


5 . Locate 12 volt power and ground

You need to ensure that you have switched power, not power directly from the battery. You don't want the EFIE running 100% of the time. It will very slowly drain your battery.

Most hydrogen boosters need switched power as well, and you can often piggy back onto them.

Note:

When power is shut off to the EFIE or the EFIE's switch is turned off, the original connection between the oxygen sensor and the computer is re-established.

If connecting to your hydrogen booster is inconvenient, just use any circuit that is accessory key switched.

One installer used the oxygen sensor's heater power for his EFIE's power, and this is perfectly acceptable.

Ground can be the vehicle body, engine block , including the ground for the oxygen sensor itself.

6. Mount the EFIE.....

You can use the mounting ears to screw down the EFIE to a suitable location on the vehicle body or firewall. Some people like to mount the device inside the passenger compartment of the car. Here are some considerations about where you mount your EFIE that should also be reviewed:

The EFIE is not 100% waterproof.
If you mount it under the hood, you will have to take care to cover it if you need to steam or spray clean your engine. If this is something you regularly do, you may want to mount the EFIE in the passenger compartment where it will be protected.

7. Attach the wires...


The 2 channel EFIE has 6 wires: red, black, white, green, blue and brown.

Connect the red to your switched power source.

Connect the black to ground.

Connect the green wire to the oxygen sensor.

Connect the white wire to the computer.


Channel 2:

Connect the brown wire to the oxygen sensor.

Connect the blue wire to the computer.

If you only have (1) 02 sensor, do not use the brown and blue wires.

Note:

You should solder the wires and use heat shrink tubing to insulate the connections from other wires. If you don't have heat shrink, you can use electrical tape. I personally always use heat shrink. It's more professional looking, and less likely to unravel later into a sticky mess.

Important Note:

The Digital Narrow Band EFIE will work best if you ground the device to your computer's ground, rather than vehicle ground.

You can use either of your oxygen sensor's ground wires for this purpose. These are usually labeled "sig low" or "signal return".

Some vehicles put a reference voltage on this wire!

Chrysler Trucks have been known to put 2.5 volts on the sensor's "sig low" wire. In these cases it is vital that you connect the Digital EFIE's ground (black wire) to the "sig low". To be clear.... Even though there is 2.5 volts on that wire, we will use it for our ground.

 

 

Adjusting The Digital EFIE

First plug your meter probes into the black and red test ports.

Set your meter for DC volts.
When the EFIE is first powered on, it will start up slowly using a 45 second timing delay.
The starting voltage you will read is about .45 volts. After about 45 seconds, the voltage will stop changing. This means the timing delay is through and you can now adjust your EFIE.

There is only one adjustment screw....

Turn the adjustment screw clockwise to lower the voltage. Lowering the voltage causes the engine to run leaner......

The EFIE has been designed so that clockwise turning of the pot increases the effect of the EFIE thus making the engine leaner. When you are reading your meter however, it will seem backwards.

After the startup delay, adjustment of the pot will change the voltage that you read at the test points from near 0 to 450 millivolts (0 - .45 volts).

The range that you are interested in is about 150 to 350 millivolts.

As you turn the pot clockwise, the mix will get leaner as the voltage goes lower. At some point it will start lugging the engine. Then turn the pot back up 15 millivolts or so, until the engine is running smooth again.

Be sure to then road test the vehicle and make sure there is no loss of power. If there is, then you need to back off the setting until this symptom completely disappears.

That’s about all there is to it.

Don’t lean it out until the engine lugs and then leave it there. Also if you're driving and the engine seems more sluggish than it was before, that's another indication that you have set the engine too lean. You'll need to back off until the condition is corrected.

For more info, send us email and we can refer you to a website dedicated to the EFIE and installing EFIE's.

 

 

 

 

 

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