Almost all modern vehicles, either fuel injected or carbureted, employ oxygen sensors to tell the vehicle's computer if the air/fuel mixture is too rich or too lean.
The computer uses the information from the 02 sensor to determine if more or less fuel should be added to the mix in order to maintain the correct proportion.

Most vehicles are designed to operate at an air/fuel ratio of 14.7 to 1. When these proportions are being supplied to the engine, a certain amount of oxygen will be detected in the exhaust by the 02 sensor, and this information is fed into the vehicle's computer.

If more oxygen is sensed, the computer thinks the mixture is too lean (not enough fuel), and adds fuel to the mix. Likewise, if less oxygen is sensed, the computer thinks the mixture is too rich (too much fuel) and cuts back on the fuel fed to the engine.

There's a big problem with this scenario since, as soon as you start adding a workable fuel efficiency device like a hydrogen booster, the oxygen content in the exhaust will rise.

If you have two efficiency devices installed, even more oxygen will be present in the exhaust. The oxygen content rises as the fuel is burned more efficiently for a number of reasons. Chief amongst these are.....

(1) less fuel is being used to produce an equivalent amount of horsepower, and

(2) less oxygen is being consumed to create carbon monoxide in the exhaust.

The bottom line is there is more oxygen in the exhaust as the fuel burning efficiency is increased.

So, now that we have spent time and money to install a hydrogen booster and we are getting a more efficient fuel burn, what does the vehicle's computer do? It dumps gas into the mix in an attempt to get an oxygen reading in the exhaust equal to it's earlier, inefficient setup. This will then negate the fuel savings of just about any efficiency device, and in some cases will actually cause an increase in fuel consumption, despite having a workable fuel efficiency device.

The Solution is simple.

The signal coming from the 02 sensor needs to be adjusted to compensate for the increased fuel efficiency being achieved.

Basically, we need to fool the computer into thinking that the engine is still burning gas inefficiently, by making it think there is less oxygen in the exhaust than there actually is.

The amount of change to the signal is easily adjustable to accommodate different amounts of efficiency increase from different size hydrogen boosters.

Complete Installation
Instructions

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Short Instructions..........
Cut the wire to the O2 sensor, attach the green wire to the O2 sensor and the white wire to the computer. Connect the red and black wire to a switched power source.
Warm up vehicle and set the output to .45 -.55 volts.

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(1) Locate the oxygen sensor signal wire

The easy way to do this is to look it up in your Haynes, Clymer or Chilton manual for your car. OR, if you don't have one of these, there is a service at www.ahdol.com where you can pay a nominal fee, and get your wiring diagrams emailed to you.

We have also recently found a resource at www.autozone.com whereby you can get your wiring diagram on your sensors.

* Locate your car, year, make and model.
* Select "Repair Info" at the left side of the screen.
* Then select, "Vehicle Repair Guides"
* then > Chassis Electrical > Wiring Diagrams

The information is not available for all cars and trucks.

Unfortunately, the sensor can have 2, 3 or 4 wires, and you have to know which one is the signal wire. If you have 4 wires they will be:

1. Heater 12 Volts +
2. Heater ground
3. Oxygen sensor signal +
4. Oxygen sensor signal ground

If you have 2 or 3 wires, then you can have a common ground or no heater wires, etc.

The simplest setup is a one wire O2 sensor, which is the signal wire. The O2 sensor gets it's ground from the exhaust pipe. But you would still use the following procedure to narrow down which wire is which:

Disconnect the wire harness to the O2 sensor.
Turn on the ignition.
Probe for 2 wires that produce 12 volts between them.
This will be the heater circuit and ground.
The two wires left will be the sensor signal and the ground.

Reconnect the wiring harness, then strip a little insulation off each of these wires and measure them with the engine running.

You should get voltage reading that is constantly fluctuating between 0 and 1 volt (.45-.65 volts is common) If the readings are negative, reverse your probes.

Now the positive probe will be the signal wire you've been looking for. Cut this wire at a convenient location for connecting the EFIE.

We'll call the sensor side of this cut wire the sensor wire, and the other side of the cut, the computer wire.

Note: rarely an oxygen sensor wiring harness will have more than 4 wires. In this case, the sensor is possibly a "wide band" oxygen sensor.

The EFIE is not designed to work with wide band sensors, although some wide band sensors have an interpreter that gives out a narrow band signal before routing to the computer.

Once you have determined which is the sensor's signal wire, you want to get it located up close to the computer. If you used a manual or wiring diagram, you probably have already located the wire at the computer's wiring harness. If you had to figure out the wires at the sensor itself, then try to find the same wire at the computer's wiring harness. It should be the same colors, but test it with an ohm meter to be sure.

(2) Locate 12 volt power and ground

You need to ensure that you have switched power, not power directly from the battery.

Note:
When power is shut off to the EFIE, or the power switch is turned off, the original connection between the oxygen sensor and the computer is re-established. This will allow the EFIE to be turned off and on with your hydrogen booster if so desired. Simply connect the red wire to the VOC (not shown here).

If connecting to your hydrogen booster is inconvenient, just use any circuit that is accessory key switched.

Your electrical diagram can come in handy here, and if you don't find another device to attach to, you can usually find a spare circuit in the fuse box (you may have to add a fuse).
One installer used the oxygen sensor's heater power for his EFIE's power, and this is perfectly acceptable.

Ground can be the vehicle body, engine block or ground from another device, including the ground for the oxygen sensor itself.

(3) Mount the EFIE

You can use the mounting ears to screw down the EFIE to a suitable location on the vehicle body or firewall. Some people like to mount the device inside the passenger compartment of the car.

Note:

1. The EFIE is not 100% waterproof. If you mount it under the hood, you will have to take care to cover it if you need to steam clean your engine. You may want to mount the EFIE in the passenger compartment where it will be protected.

2. If you live in a cold climate, where temperatures are expected to be below freezing for a significant number of days per year, you will want to ensure that the EFIE is mounted where it will be warmed, either by the engine, or inside the passenger compartment.

In most cases this can be accomplished by mounting your EFIE in the upper rear of the engine compartment, close to the firewall, which will allow it to benefit from trapped engine heat.

4. Attach the wires

Connect the red to your power source.
Connect the black to ground.
Connect the green wire to the oxygen sensor.
Connect the white wire to the computer.

Hopefully you've been able to locate all these wires up by the computer in an easily accessible location. Be sure not to cut them too close to the computer so that you have plenty of slack to work with them.

You should solder them and use heat shrink tubing to insulate the connections from other wires. If you don't have heat shrink, you can use electrical tape.

Important Note:

Take care to not reverse the connections for the red and black wires as the EFIE will burn out!!! It will make smoke and will smell bad...(;;) If this happens, the unit can be fully restored by merely replacing the voltage regulator. Contact us for a new regulator if this occurs.

EFIE Connection Diagram

How to Adjust Your EFIE

To Read and Adjust Your EFIE .......

Connect the leads from your VOM to the red and black probes on the front of your EFIE. This will show just the voltage offset being produced by the EFIE.
Turn on the power to the EFIE.

Using the voltage adjust potentiometer the voltage should be set to about .1 - .3 volts.....

Most of the EFIE's that we have tested are preset to .2 - .3 volts. If you are going to make adjustments start with .2 - .3 volts if you have a booster, .1 - .2 volts if you don't have a booster.

A higher voltage = leaner.

This is all that needs to be done most of the time.

You can vary this for different vehicles and different size hydrogen boosters or other fuel saving devices. If you set the EFIE to high, you might get a check engine light.

To test the output of your EFIE and O2 sensor.....

Oxygen sensors have a warm up period before they operate properly, so warm up your vehicle before making adjustments.

 

Connect the VOM + to the red probe and the VOM - to the vehicle's ground.

While the vehicle is running, use the voltage adjust potentiometer to set the output of your Deluxe EFIE to vary between .2 to .7 volts.

Do this when the vehicle is warm and your booster is turned on.

Leave the VOM connected and rev the engine up and down to make sure the range stays between 0-1 volt.

If you take a measurement from your O2 sensor before you connect your Booster or EFIE, you can use these numbers as a Guideline as to what voltage to set the voltage output from your EFIE.

So that is how you set the voltage.

Let's say you set the EFIE to .25 volts. Let's also say that when reading the oxygen sensor in the previous paragraph, you saw a fluctuating voltage between .2 and .7 volts. When reading the computer's input voltage you would then see a constantly changing voltage in the range of .45 and .95. This is due to the .2 to .7 volts the sensor is producing, plus .25 volts that the EFIE is adding.

...................... Dan HBN ..............................